June 16-17-18, 2011 In Mullen Nebraska
The Nebraska Sandhills are not known by many, other than botanists and cattlemen.
They are an area of 19,600 square miles (1/4 of the state) of sand dunes that are
covered in native grasses and forbs with clean lakes and marshes scattered between.
Early on, settlers realized that the land could not be farmed and it immediately became
an area conducive only to light grazing. In 1904 the Kincaid Act was passed and it
allowed homesteaders to claim 640 acres (a square mile or one section), much more
than the 160 acres previously defined by the Homestead Act of 1862. The act was
created specifically for the sandhills region and is responsible for the hugeness of the
land holdings there today. It is now one of the most remote areas of the United
States. So sparse, in fact, that Cherry County is similar in size to West Virginia,
while holding only 6,098 people, half of which reside in Valentine, NE. This results in
a population density of one person per 1.02 square miles. Only areas of the
backcountry in Alaska and North Dakota can compare. Land is discussed in sections
and the term “acre” brings up odd looks.
Because of these extremes you have an ecosystem that is largely intact. The cattle
density is very low due to the fragility of the sand dunes. The ranchers know very well
the damage that can be done once a sand “blow out” occurs. Some of the prairie
species that occur in the shortgrass and sandy prairies in the Midwest are also
found here and feed the prized cattle. The extensive root systems and sandy soils assist
in filtering water of the Ogallala aquifer, the worlds largest, which lies beneath the
endless sand dunes. Exotic plants make up only 7 percent of the entire flora here -an
amazingly low number when compared to the fertility of the Midwest. The area also
supports large numbers of birds and mammals, it is the namesake to the Sandhill Crane
(Grus canadensis) and Forbes magazine called Grand Island, NE the number one
destination in the world for bird watchers.
If you travel to the Sandhills region be prepared to not see many people, fill up with
gas when you have the opportunity, not sleep at Holiday Inns (we slept at someone’s
house once) and be overwhelmed by its vastness and ranching traditions. You will also
realize that windmill repair and maintenance is an actual industry here. There are
several campgrounds and B&Bs throughout and recreational opportunities available.
I will never forget the pleasure I had when a hungry sales shark was trying to sell me a
timeshare in Orlando, Florida. She asked me where I enjoyed vacationing the most and
where I took my last vacation. I didn’t realize that honesty was also the best way to
end her sales pitch.
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